My son Josh and I decided to take a backpacking trip to Joshua Tree NP. There were a few reasons we decided on Joshua Tree: it was close enough to a United hub (LAX) which made getting flights much easier. The weather would be warm but not too hot. Joshua Tree didn't require permits in advance for backcountry camping. And we had heard and read great things about the special terrain and flora. So it was an easy decision. We only had a few days to do it since Josh is in high school and had a couple of extra days off around Memorial Day due to no snow days this past winter.
After flying to LAX, making our way through traffic, picking up food and fuel we arrived at Joshua Tree around 5 PM. It had already been 16 hours since we woke that morning (in NJ) but we were excited to finally get into the park. After paying the entrance fee and filling up our bottles at the last water source we drove to Boy Scout Trail and loaded up our packs. I really wasn't sure what to expect in terms of how cold it would feel during the night so I ended up taking too much clothing. Better safe than sorry, right? With a days worth of food and water, the pack was kind of heavy but very manageable. Off we went. See a map here.
Being from the East Coast, the California desert is very foreign to us. The Joshua Trees, cholla and other cactus, and the boulders were all so cool. We didn't expect such variety of growth in the desert. It was really interesting and inspiring to see.
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| Cholla flower |
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| Cholla Cactus |
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| Josh on Boy Scout Trail |
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| Camp site |
After a few miles in we moved off-trail to find a campsite before the big rocks looming in front of us. It was was easy to find a nice level place with a clearing and convenient rocks nearby to cook dinner and offer privacy. After setting up tent and being treated to a great sunset we made dinner. We got tired of the freeze-dried ready meals so we tried something different - couscous (which just takes boiling water), and a red pepper with apples for dessert. It worked out pretty well as we weren't too hungry this first night.
It takes a long time to get dark when there aren't any trees around. The stars started popping out of the deep blue sky. Jupiter was overhead and Mars was in the East. We got out the Sky Guide app on the iPhone and could identify nearly all the constellations visible to us. By 9:30 PM we went to sleep even though the sky wasn't completely dark yet. We were just too beat after a 20 hour day. The night air was just cool enough to sleep well though I didn't close up my sleeping bag until the middle of the night. We got to hear a couple of coyotes calling which was cool since they didn't sound close. The moon rose around 1:30 AM and it was bright for last quarter. I never sleep well during the first night camping and this was no exception.
Day 2 - Saturday, June 28, 2016
By the time the sun rose above the hills and into the tent it was 6:30 AM. Getting up was easy because the air was probably in the low 60's but the sun warmed me up in about 30 seconds. Breakfast was instant oatmeal and an apple - standard backpacking fare. We broke camp and were moving by 8:00 AM.
It was interesting that Josh was a little disoriented as to the direction to the trail. It was a good opportunity to review where the sun set and where it rose and consider the time of year as to whether it would be towards the north or south. After a little convincing we headed east and found Boy Scout Trail.
We headed north on the trail towards the hilly and rocky section. After a few miles we came to a section with steep hills of stacked rocks. I thought we could hike to the end of the trail at Indian Cove but then I thought how much fun it would be (for Josh especially) to climb up the rocks. He jumped at the idea and we scrambled up. Pausing at a point about 1/2 way up we considered how much more to do. Of course he wanted to go all the way. I was happy to stay there so he continued on his own. See pics.
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| Up the first part with Josh in the lead. The steepness gave me pause. |
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| A panorama from about 1/2 way up where I sat and Josh continued. |
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| Josh at the top (white spec) |
We found some shade under a Joshua Tree and made a lunch of tortillas, beans, and red pepper. We also managed to go through our first gallon of water each. With the sun heating you up and the air drying you out, one gallon each per day is just about enough.
We then drove south/east in the park to see some sights not far from the road - Arch Rock, the Cholla Garden, down to Fried Liver Wash and Turkey Flats. Arch rock was cool and the formations in that area were stunning - see pics. Cholla garden was really interesting. Chollas are through out the park (at least what we saw) but at the garden the density is very high without much else growing there. What is it about that one small spot that is so attractive to these cactus?
Stopping at Turkey Flats, which was a turkey farm about 100 years ago (what was he thinking??) we met a fellow preparing to hike out and spend the night. After talking with him I thought it might be a good desert experience very much removed from any trail or human improvement. More on Day 3.
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| Arch Rock |
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| Mostly vertical formations near Arch Rock |
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| Looks like the boulder from Radiers made it here. Josh underneath. |
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| Cholla Gardens |
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| Desert Willow in bloom |
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| Two Ocotillo trees in bloom |
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| Descending into the Canyon and finding the palms |
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| Towering palms |
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| Some wildflowers |
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| A look up the canyon between two palms |
Day 3, Sunday, May 29, 2016
I think we slept until 7AM. The wash was in a carved stone sluice-way about 8 feet high so the sun didn't shine into the tent as early. It was a good night's sleep (for camping). Instant oatmeal, pack up camp and we were moving by 8:30. On the hike back to the car we made a diversion to go to Mastodon Peak. Stashing our packs again we climbed up to the top for very nice views of the desert and surrounding mountains. A refreshing breeze was there too. Josh explored a bit and found the old mine nearby. Back to the car for our next stop.
Josh and I talked about hiking out Turkey Flats and finding our way up Pinto Mountain. It was only about noon and too hot to load up the packs so we parked at the flats and used the shade in the car to relax, nap, and get ready. It was interesting to watch cars pull up to the backcountry board. Most people would get out and look around. Some just looked from the comfort of the AC. A family with (I presume) a grandfather, his daughter, and grandkids was looking around, reading the board, and taking pictures. The grandfather suggests, probably jokingly, to take a hike out to the sand dune about a mile or so away. The daughter exclaims "No way. It looks like hell!" I don't blame her at all - the flats do not look interesting from the parking lot and it was very hot, but I couldn't help to think that's where I'm taking my son and hiking into. And this is vacation? Well, I thought we need to experience all the park has to offer so it's worth a try. If it's bad, we can always come back.
Around 2:00 PM we loaded up food and water again. I removed more stuff from my pack that I didn't use the previous two nights. No sense carrying more than needed. Walking out the flats was at first pretty boring. Sure there were a few lizards and sometimes my weight would collapse the lizard home. Then I'd start to see the patterns of holes around the edges of the home and we would try to avoid walking directly on the borrow. As we got further in the yellow flowers started appearing and got pretty dense until we got close enough to the mountain where rocks started covering the sand. In some places it looked like it was paved. About all that grew were some dry-looking scrub and an occasional sage bush.
We made it to a small hill where we would stash our packs, try to find a little shade, and have some lunch. Shade was hard to find. We basically found a rock block that offered about a foot of shadow. We squeezed in and had tortillas, beans, and red pepper. After lunch Josh walked around the hill and found a second spot of shade. We each lay down in the shade and tried to doze until about 4:30 until the sun wasn't as strong.
We strategized how to get up the mountain. From our vantage point it didn't look too bad - just follow some ascending hills and it looked like it led to the top. The hills turned out to be quite steep and everything was loose rock. It wasn't bad but it wasn't easy either. By the time we got to the top of the first hill we were covered in sweat. And guess what - the hills are connected but there are deep grooves between them. So we started down the other side and it got very steep to where we were almost inching down and hoping to step in rocks that didn't fly out with our weight. Up the next hill after some water and catch-my-breath stops. And guess what - another hill. After two more of these we finally made it to the top of Pinto, but wait - there is a higher peak another mile away! It was too late and we both recognized we were getting too worn out to get to that peak (especially with the intervening hills). We called it a victory and figured out how to get down.
When you are far away, the path looks reasonable. As we followed the wash down the mountain it really wasn't bad but then the rocks got bigger, the drops got a little steeper or deeper, but we were able to make it down. The growth in the canyon wash was impressive. Lots of barrel cactus, wild flowers, and big bunch grass. Sometimes it was as hard to get around the growth as the boulders. When we were down to a nearly level ground we still had to go around a good sized hill and I thought our packs were just up and over the other side of the hill we were next to. It didn't look like much to go up and over, but of course it was more than it looked. And the way down was steep with all loose rock and more wash on the other side. Oh well, we weren't about to back track. Eventually we made it out and found our packs. The sun was at the horizon so we decided to hike back out to a sandy area since the thought of sleeping on the rocky surface was not appealing.
After another 1/2 hour hike towards the road we found a suitable sandy area, set up camp, and had a dinner of rice, beans, and peppers. It was already dark but it was a good day. Hiking without a trail really has its challenges even when the area is wide open. The sky was crystal clear and the Milky Way was clearly visible, again.
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| Heading out to the flats. Pinto is visible on the right as is the sand dune. |
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| Suggest routes to Pinto Mountain. We thought we were taking the western route (left most) but we ended up somewhere between the western and direct routes. |
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| As we got further into the flats, more flowers started popping up. |
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| The view from a narrow slice of shade as we rested until later in the afternoon when the sun wouldn't be as strong. |
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| Made it up! |
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| Wildflowers in the wash on the way down. |
Day 4, Monday, May 30, 2016
After breakfast we hiked back out to the car with a little diversion across the sand dune. I was interested because it was a slightly different color, like a lighter tan, than the grayish sand where we were. I thought maybe it was a different rock/sand that give it color. As we got nearly to the dune, it became obvious why it was a lighter color - it was covered, I mean covered in the yellow wild flowers. I couldn't avoid stepping on them, it was so dense. Very cool.
After we got back to the car, we decided to go to Ryan Mountain which is a very popular hike up a very well groomed trail. No chance of taking a different path here. It was groomed from bottom to top. I can't imagine how many people and how many hours it took to create all the steps and trail. It was a fun, aerobic trek up with far reaching views to Mt. San Jacinto, Mt. San Gorgonio and the Salton Sea. Pictures can't really capture it, but here is one anyway. The entire up and down only took about two hours with a nice viewing break.
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| View from Ryan Mountain towards Mt. San Gorgonio. |
We wanted to try another part of the park and the California Riding and Hiking trail looked like it might work. We parked at the backcountry board off Keys View Road and started hiking west. It was interesting terrain, mostly flat with just a little elevation change here and there. However there was growth and small rocks everywhere and we thought it looked like it would be difficult to find a place to camp. Actually Josh made the request to go back to Boy Scout Trail straight away but I wanted to try someplace we had not yet been. After a mile and a half we turned around and drove to Boy Scout. About three miles in we chose a nice area to camp, ate dinner (warmed beans, red pepper, beef jerky, and an apple) and turned in. Yet another beautiful night.
Day 5, Tuesday, May 31, 2016
We didn't have any shade from the sun so when it hit my sleeping bag at 6:30 AM I immediately felt it heating up and tore the bag off. A breakfast of canned fruit and banana was enough. We started hiking back to the car and met up with some friendly lizards and Josh stepped on a snake that was camouflaged in the trail. Luckily it didn't bite and just slithered away. We hiked back to the car and it was time to say goodbye to Joshua Tree. One last picture at the entrance and a stop at the visitors center for tee shirts and to talk with the ranger and then back to LA.
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Some Food/Gear Points:
1) 1 gallon water per day per person. Temperatures were in the mid 80's to low 90's. Any warmer and 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 gallons would be needed.
2) Beans and tortillas went well, as long as you like beans
3) Couscous was the favorite, then rice, and polenta last. All were easy to cook.
4) Peppers really kept well. I was trying to figure out what vegetable to bring. These kept well in the car trunk, the backpack and were easy to prepare.
5) Apples also kept well and had little waste to carry back.
6) Canned fruit was worth the weight and carry back. Next time I'd take it every day.
7) Beef jerky was like candy at dinner. We weren't jerky fans but we're converted.
6) For snacks Cliff Bars were good to help fill a teenager.
7) Also brought a peanut, raisin, pumpkin seed mix that was good.
Gear:
1) One Kelty two-person tent. About 5 lbs. Could have left the fly but I used it as a pillow.
2) Two summer weight Marmot sleeping bags, about 2 lbs 6 oz each.
3) MSR pocket rocket and fuel - great little burner. Never blew out in the breeze.
4) I wore long sleeves and long pants along with my sun hat. Josh wore shorts and short sleeves along with his sun had. He applied sunscreen a couple of times a day. No sign of sunburn on either of us.
5) 1 Qt Aluminum camp boiler, small pot, two sporks, one pocket knife (need to get a can opener next time!).
6) Headlamp and flashlight, though barely used them.
7) Compass came in handy at the flats. It's easy to see the mountains, couldn't see the car or roadway on the way back.
Almost forgot - Josh insisted in bringing his pillow. I thought it was too awkward to carry but he used it everywhere - on the plane, snoozing in the car, in the tent. And he found a good way to carry it on his pack without taking up any room in the pack - just stuffing it between the straps that hold the top flap down. It really worked out well.
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